Characterization of Extreme Waves in the Western Pacific Ocean Based on ERA5 Data

YAO Shijie; DUAN Wenyang; JING Shuanbao; FENG Ruipeng

doi:10.7643/ issn.1672-9242.2025.11.012

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Equipment Environmental Engineering ›› 2025, Vol. 22 ›› Issue (11) : 113-122. DOI: 10.7643/ issn.1672-9242.2025.11.012

Ships and Marine Engineering Equipment

Characterization of Extreme Waves in the Western Pacific Ocean Based on ERA5 Data

YAO Shijie¹, DUAN Wenyang^1,*, JING Shuanbao², FENG Ruipeng¹

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Abstract

Extreme waves pose a great threat to the safety of marine equipment. The work aims to quantify the temporal and spatial evolution characteristics of extreme waves in the western Pacific and reveal the driving mechanism of extreme wind field on extreme wave height, thus providing reference for the design and operation of marine structures. Based on the ERA5 reanalysis dataset (1995-2024) published by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), the extreme wave characteristics in the western Pacific were systematically quantified. Firstly, the frequency and composition characteristics of dangerous ocean waves were analyzed. Furthermore, the high percentile method was used to describe the spatial-temporal pattern and interannual/seasonal evolution trend of extreme wave intensity, and to reveal the driving mechanism of extreme wind field on waves. On this basis, the regional risk level was evaluated by the disaster risk index, and finally the Gumbel distribution model was used to predict the return period wave height.Dangerous waves in the western Pacific were mainly generated by dangerous wind waves, but dangerous swells propagated farther in open waters. The extreme waves showed a significant increasing trend in the sea area around Taiwan Island and the northeast area of the western Pacific, with an increase of about 0.04 m/a, and the change was mainly controlled by the evolution of extreme wind speed. The study revealed the distribution of wave risk levels in the western Pacific, and pointed out that the extreme wave heights of 50-year and 100-year return periods could reach 16.11 m and 17.69 m.This study provides key environmental parameters for the wave resistance design and safe operation and maintenance of the Western Pacific Ocean project.

Key words

extreme waves / extreme wind speed / wave risk / western Pacific / ERA5

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YAO Shijie, DUAN Wenyang, JING Shuanbao, FENG Ruipeng. Characterization of Extreme Waves in the Western Pacific Ocean Based on ERA5 Data[J]. Equipment Environmental Engineering. 2025, 22(11): 113-122 https://doi.org/10.7643/ issn.1672-9242.2025.11.012

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